The Longest Dirt Road In the World

I believe this was the day after Mount Rushmore. Sandy had wanted to see some Native Americans and I suggested we take a drive to Badlands National Park. The White River Visitor Center is staffed by members of the Oglala Sioux Tribe.

Looking at the Park Map it seemed that the visitor center we wanted was on the southern part of the park. Sandy had also discovered that she had left her souvenirs from Mount Rushmore in the gift shop and wanted to go back there to see if they still had them there. She had her receipt so I figured we could go to the visitor center and then back track to Mount Rushmore.

This was the first morning that we didn’t have a tour scheduled so we didn’t have to rush to get up. We decided a break from Jimmy Dean was in order and we walked over to the Perkins Restaurant next door for breakfast.

After a leisurely meal we headed to the car and south to find the Visitor Center. It was a little confusing at first but eventually we arrived and true to the advertisement it was staffed by Native Americans.

The displays were wonderful and the staff great to talk with. They answered all of our questions. One of the staff said they were having a Pow Wow at Pine Ridge and suggested we go there next. We could see Wounded Knee at the same time as they were all in the same area. We just had to drive across the Pine Ridge Reservation.

I left Sandy to get directions and headed out to the car. I met another Native American Staffer on the way in. He stopped me and said “Snow tonight”. I laughed and said “ Oh no, I hope not!” he laughed too and just said “ Yes, snow.” Sandy and I laughed about the snow predication as we climbed into the car.

Sandy said to take a right onto a dirt road that ran right past the Visitor Center. We had learned that because the reservation is considered a sovereign nation , that they do not get federal funds to maintain roads or other infrastructure. Therefore almost all of the roads on the reservation are dirt. Still, this one seemed to be well maintained and graded so we set off at a fair clip.

As with everywhere we had been so far the scenery was just amazing and there was wildlife everywhere.

This continued to amaze me because seeing wild animals out like this during the day just doesn’t happen in the northeast. Spotting a deer during the day is unusual in spite of road kill to the contrary.

Now remember it had rained hard the night before. I’d had the pleasure of driving from Mount Rushmore to Rapid City in the dark and downpour. So Sandy and I are chatting as we drive along this dirt road when all of a sudden it was mud.

 The car swished about a little and I made note to watch more carefully for the puddles. Sure enough, we began to hit more and more muddy patches finally hitting the biggest mud puddle of all!

I tried to swerve around it but it covered the whole road and the car just slid sideways into the middle of that mess. Water flew everywhere and our white car wasn’t white anymore. There was even mud on the sunroof. With a little fishtailing we were able to get ourselves out and on our way again but first I had to stop to laugh. It was the funniest thing that had happened the whole trip and it really tickled my funny bone.

I don’t know how long we drove but it seemed to be forever. I pretty much figured we’d gone in the wrong direction but we’d been driving for so long that I wasn’t going to back track. Sandy said the Staffers probably saw us drive off in the wrong direction and said something like “stupid white women”. well after the mud bath that just hit me funny again so I had another laughing fit.

Just as we were joking about being lost on the reservation forever we bumped onto pavement. We drove through a small settlement and then saw a sign for one of the main roads. As we pulled onto it, Sandy said she wanted to get out and kiss the pavement. That set off another round of giggles.

I did take a picture of the dirt road. It seems to go on forever. I should mention too that we made it back to Mount Rushmore and Sandy went into the gift shop where she had made her purchase last night. She showed her receipt and they replaced her souvenir.

But we never did find the Pow Wow. Going to one is now on my bucket list for a return
trip but we had a lot of fun driving the “Longest Dirt Road in the World”.

Next Post: Thunder Falls

Only a couple of days left to suggest names for the Prairie Dog.

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Bad Notes = Confused Entries

Well I have hit a problem in my narrative. I must confess that my memory of the chronology of the trip is not sufficient to break the rest of the trip down into posts and keep the order from becoming confused.

Sandy has traveled with me before and can tell you that I am diligent about keeping a journal while on vacation. This is because that before there were blogs there were scrapbooks. I would come home with all my little souvenirs, ticket stubs, receipts and pictures and organize them into a scrap book. I’d learned that memory is faulty especially if you don’t get a chance to put it all together right away. So I developed the habit of writing down the day’s events each night before I went to bed while it was still fresh in my mind.

Up until now I had my normal detailed entries to work from but when I turned the page to see where we went the day after Mount Rushmore…there was nothing? I found some scribbled bullet points at the end of the week but the next few days are blank. I have tons of pictures from them so I will endeavor to spins some tales about the things we did but I do not know if I got the order right. Hopefully I will not forget anything too important.

So tomorrow I’ll start with the longest dirt road in the world (my title for it. Not any official title)

Mount Rushmore National Monument

Back when I wrote about the carving on Stone Mountain, Ga. I introduced you to mountain artist and sculpture, Gutzon Borglum. At that time I said we would meet up with Mr. Borglum again in a later post in South Dakota. Well, that time is now.

Gutzon Borglum is the man who made Mount Rushmore possible. Borgum explored mountains and spires through out the Needles and Black Hills before he spotted Mount Rushmore.

Once the mountain of granite was chosen, Borglum had to decide who would be on it. Borglum explained his choices this way: Washington because he is the father of our country, Jefferson because he expressed our beliefs in the Declaration of independence and expanded our territory with the Louisiana Purchase. Lincoln was chosen for preserving the union and Teddy Roosevelt because he fulfilled the expansionist’s dream by linking the oceans with the Panama Canal”

Periodically there are suggestions to add a 5^th head but that can’t happen. The area of usable granite is taken up entirely by the existing 4 heads. The original vision was for the men to be full body but money was always an issue.

Go to the auditorium at Mount Rushmore and watch the film about the carving of the mountain. It is fascinating and educational.

When we arrived at Mount Rushmore we found a modern parking garage and visitor centers with cafeteria, auditorium and gift shops. It was cold and rainy and I believe I even saw a tiny snow flake or two. It certainly felt like it was cold enough.

I loved the Avenue of the States, the walkway lined with granite pillars. Each Pillar was carved with 4 states and the date they joined the union. Each State’s flag flies from the pillar. The view was just what you see in the Movie National Treasure, Book of Secrets with Nicolas Cage.

We followed the trail to the Native American village but it was closed. Still we took a moment to get some pictures.

Then we followed the board walk up the mountain to get a bit closer to the monument itself. At one point there was a small side spur that led into a cave. You could see the carving through a crack in the cave ceiling.

I met a couple of young men in the cave and we walked with them for a bit. When we came to the stairs up the face of the monument, Sandy and I decided to pass on the climb but our young escorts went on.

We went back down the boardwalk to have dinner in the cafeteria and warm up before we went to sit outside for the lighting of the Monument. Somehow, somewhere one of us had heard that this was quite spectacular . We still had time to spare and since it was quite cold outside we explored the book store and souvenir shops. We finally ended up on the upper level of the visitor center. There were benches facing a large window through which you could see the carving. We could stay in here and be warm for the lighting but we wouldn’t be able to hear the ranger’s speech. I took advantage of the seating and sat down. As I looked up at the carving I thought I saw a flash of light like a camera flash. I kept watching the area and pretty soon I thought I saw someone step out in the open and then duck back behind a tree. This happened a couple of times so I spoke up and asked if anyone else had seen this. At first everyone told me it was my imagination but when it happened again I pointed it out.

By now everyone around me was watching the rubble under the faces where the “action”: was taking place. Once we saw this a couple of more times and it was confirmed that there was someone up there, one of the others watching went to the Ranger and asked him about it. He said they were aware of the climbers and that it was illegal to leave the path and climb out like that. A “retrieval” team was on it’s way to apprehend the trespassers. The Ranger said that fines for this violation start at $250.00. We learned the description of the 2 interlopers and it sounded suspiciously like our two young escorts! They will have a nice fine to remember their little adventure.

The rain was coming down harder now so I asked the ranger what to expect from the Lighting. He said it was a brief ceremony and then they turned on the lights so the monument could be seen in the dark. No fireworks, no lasers, just a few spotlights.

I carried this information back to Sandy and we decided not to hang around any longer. It was a long drive back to Rapid City and the weather was turning very nasty. It turned out to be a very wet and rainy drive .

I’m glad we didn’t stay any later than we did.

Iron Mountain Road, Black Hills, South Dakota

Leaving the Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary we made one brief stop at Crystal Falls



Crystal Falls, SD

 then headed north to have our “official” Mount Rushmore experience as opposed to out “Accidental” visit when we first got here.



Where the deer and the antelope play

 As we approached Custer State Park we were treated to a majestic buck and his entourage.

 I pulled over and grabbed the camera. That buck wasn’t intimidated at all. In fact, as I came around the car to get a better angle he actually stepped forward, head up as if he were challenging me. He stood and stared while I took picture after picture before he turned and led his little band off.

As I returned to the car I noticed for the first time that we had company. Other cars had pulled over to watch this brazen buck. As I returned to our car, the other cars pulled out and passed me. I collected their waves and thumbs up with pleasure.

Back in the car we soon came to the entrance to Custer State Park. Going left into the Park would take us on the Wildlife Loop Road that we toured with Dan and going right would take us up Iron Mountain Road to Mount Rushmore. So today it was a right turn for us.

Iron Mountain Road is part of RT 16A and The Norbeck Scenic Byway which also includes the Loop road and Needles Highway. The road climbs steeply up the mountain through one lane tunnels, be sure you honk your horn, over pigtail bridges and around horseshoe curves. The pigtail bridges are really interesting as they go over their own road so as we went over the bridge we could look down on the cars that were following us up the mountain.

The tunnels are lined up so that they frame Mount Rushmore and it’s tempting to stop for a photo op. I’m sure some people do but that day the traffic was very steady and it didn’t seem safe to stop. Needless to say, I have no pictures of this drive. I had both hands on the wheel and Sandy was white-knuckled in the passenger seat. She doesn’t like heights and this road was playing right into her worst phobias. I think anyone prone to car sickness should avoid this route too but I had a great timeJ We saw some RV’s trying it on for size and I suppose if your really careful and have good brakes that you’ll be fine but I wouldn’t do it. I’d leave the RV at home and rent a car for the day to make the drive.

At the top of the mountain is The Norbeck Observation Point. It has a well paved parking lot and rest rooms. There’s a trail down to an observation deck with awesome views. It was really cold up there on the mountain so we didn’t linger for too long. Besides, we had a date with 4 handsome men on a mountain.

For more information and a couple of pictures I have included a link
http://www.allblackhills.com/scenic_drives/iron_mountain_road.php

This is the last week for names for the Prairie Dog.

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More tomorrow!

Spanish Mares and Don Juan

We were headed off to another area of the Sanctuary where a band of Spanish mares and their stallion, Don Juan hang out. Krista told us that Don Juan was small but mighty, keeping a loyal band of followers in line.
She said the Spanish Horses all have bloodlines that go back to the horses brought to the New World by the Conquistadores which is how they got the name “Spanish”. They can be recognized because they all have distinctive markings on their legs similar to the stripes you see on Zebras. Some also have lines on their rumps similar to buckskin markings and many are dusky colored although that is not a color requirement.

On the way we had the thrill of seeing a small band of horses doing what you dream of wild horses doing, running. Krista pulled over so I could get out and try for a picture. The horses were way out of range of my zoom but even so it is one of my favorite pictures right up there with the Prairie Dog with the flower. I am sharing the original which gives you some idea of the scale of the land and the cropped version that features the horses. I like both! What’s you favorite?

We stopped at one point so we could admire a beautiful dun colored mare that seemed to have all the markings Krista had been telling us about plus a little bird. Sometimes everything just comes together!

We found Don Juan and his band of mares at one of the artificial watering stations that are set up around the sanctuary.

 Krista said they have tank trucks that make the rounds and fill the water tanks daily. The color segregation continued in this band too.




Don Juan

 That wrapped up our tour and we headed back to the welcome center. In the process we drove by the spot we had seen the loose horse when we came in. It was gone so the wrangler must have rounded her up. Nearby a tiny Western Bluebird fluttered to a stop and I was lucky enough to get a picture. We heard the meadowlarks here too. It’s such a beautiful area.

Back at the parking lot I spotted a chicken coop but the chickens were different than any I’d ever seen. Loads of fluffy little chicks were running around.

There was also a coop of albino peacocks. Krista had pointed those out when we started out. I wasn’t interested then. I just wanted to see the horses so I said I’d get a picture later…but I forgot. So you’ll just have to take my word for it. Krista said they were mean anyway J


Leaving the Sanctuary we turned our sight toward Mount Rushmore, the main reason for the trip. We would be driving Iron Mountain road to get there. That was fun!
　

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Native Americans, Petroglyphs and Birds

As we headed out to the next stop on Krista’s tour she told us we would be going by a sacred site that the Lakota were preparing for a Ghost Dance. She told us that most white people are not allowed to observe a Ghost Dance because parts of the ritual are very misunderstood. To be invited you have to be able to prove that you have a Native American bloodline. She said that when the sanctuary was created the Lakota was given the use of the land for their rituals and celebrations.



Lakota Prayer Pole

 We could drive by and we could take pictures as we go by but we can’t stop. I got a picture of the prayer pole.

Soon we were pulling up in front of a huge cliff. Krista took us up to the cliff and pointed out the petroglyphs. She said one of the “glyphs” had paint on it so it would show up better so I took a picture of the blue paint spot hoping I would be able to see them once the picture was blown up.



Can you see a petroglyph under the blue paint?



wall carving

 
There were “modern” petroglyphs too, better known as graffiti but as Krista pointed out some day they will be ancient too and if humans are still around, someone will be standing there marveling at these carvings from the mid 1900’s.

On this same cliff were swallow nests and you could see the little birds in them. I took lots of pictures of these little birds. I’ve never been this close to these mud nests before.



Swallow nests on cliff face

 As we pulled onto the gravel road we saw a little bird run in front of the car. Krista laughed and slowed down.



Killdeer

 She said it was a Killdeer and that it would race the car. I leaned out the window to take pictures of this little bird as it ran along side us. When it couldn’t keep up anymore it flew a few feet ahead of us and then started running along all over again.



On your mark, Get set.....

 We were headed over to see the Spanish Mares and their stallion Don Juan when we drove into a very active prairie dog town.


 I told Krista I’d seen lots of Prairie Dogs but had yet to get a “Really Good” picture. She said we had time to stop so pulled over to see if we could get lucky here. As if to prove that this was the best opportunity a little “dog” popped up on my side of the car with a flower in it’s mouth. Krista was yelling…”Look at that!...Did you get ? Did you get the shot?” and then he was gone back into his burrow. You be the judge…Did I get the shot?

　
Next time, Spanish mares and Don Juan.

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Wild Horses!

Finally there they were! The main event! As we came out of a stand of trees and a field opened up in front of us we couldn’t miss them. They were everywhere.

Krista slowly drove the SUV right into the midst of them. I was surprised that they didn’t run or stampede or something. Krista said the recent rains had finally broken the drought and the hoses were gorging themselves like they were at an all you can eat buffet. With this banquet in front of them, they paid no attention to us as long as we moved slowly and quietly.

Krista pointed out that the horses seem to segregate themselves. The herd had many different colors and patterns from roan to pinto to white or black but within the herd each color pattern seemed to stay close to others of the same pattern.. I had never heard that before but as I looked I could see that Krista was right.

Krista let us get out of the car but told us not to approach the horses so we stayed close to the SUV. We didn’t want to disturb these beautiful animals. We just wanted to enjoy the sight.

Eventually Krista said we should move on. There was another herd she wanted us to see so it was back in the car. Over another hill and we slowly pulled into another herd. Here is where I got some of the best shots. These horses were busy eating too but they also showed more interest in us.

Some of these horses had birds riding on their backs. The birds eat the bugs and flies from the horses’ coats.. The color/pattern segregation continued in this band too.

Back in the SUV we followed tire tracks past more horses to a lookout over the Cheyenne River Valley.

 

Krista explained that the Cheyenne bends back and forth 7 times so is considered sacred by the native people. She said some of the herds never cross the river. They stay in the rugged “wild side “ of the sanctuary and only come down to drink from the river. Today we didn’t see any. The river valley was quiet.

At this point Krista said she was going to take us to see the petroglyphs so it was back in the SUV.

More on our Sanctuary visit in my next post.J

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Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary

I woke up really excited today. Wild horses have been running through my dreams all night. All of the stories and movies I’d ever seen or heard had my anticipation at a fever pitch.

It didn’t take us long to finish our Jimmy Dean breakfast, I confess I was nearing the end of my tolerance to JD sandwiches but they were fast and free, and then we were on our way.

We no sooner made the turn off RT 44 onto RT 79 South than we spotted 2 beautiful pronghorn. They were just standing there as though watching the traffic go by. Heads up, they made a beautiful picture in the early morning light. Sorry, it’s only in my mind, I was driving again and couldn’t stop, although I was really tempted to try.



Wild Tom Turkey

 We made good time, even stopping to get a picture of a turkey in full display and of a deer peaking out of a ravine.



Deer

 The entrance is marked by a really attractive sculpture of running horses. We stopped for that picture for sure.



Entrance Sculpture

  Then we drove down a well graded dirt road. We passed horses that were behind a fence and then spotted one on the outside of the fence. As we continued on we went up a small rise and then back down a rutted portion of the road. Not too much farther on we saw some buildings and there were cars parked in the dirt parking lot. I think we have arrived.



The Sanctuary Ranch

 We went into the building which we learned was one of the original homestead building. Now that the property was a sanctuary, the building was converted to the welcome center.



Visitor Center

 It was about 9:30 am and our tour was for 10:00am so we had half an hour to look around and get checked in. I got my “Kitty Fix” when we met the Sanctuary Cat. When I travel I do miss my pets but I always seem to connect with at least one cat on each trip…I call that connection my “Kitty Fix”.



Sanctuary Cat

 Right on time our guide came out to meet up. This time our guide was a personable young lady named Krista who also happened to be one of the sanctuary photographers. That was great because she said she’d help me find some good shots. The tour was billed as “semi-private” but Sandy and I were the only ones on it so as far as I’m concerned, it was private. That gives us much more flexibility.

We told Krista about the horse we’d seen on the outside of the fence and she went back inside to tell one of the wranglers. Soon after we saw someone heading back up the road. Krista said he would round up the horse and get her back where she belonged.



Yearling Statue

 Krista showed us the yearling paddock and explained that in order to manage the herd size, some of foals that are born on the sanctuary are rounded up and sold to offset the operating costs. She said that for the most part the herd size is managed by separating the stallions from the mares to prevent too many foals. South Dakota has been in the grips of a drought the last few years and if the horses had been allowed to breed, many animals would have starved even with human intervention. The horses are truly wild and are left to fend for themselves against the elements and predators. It sounds cruel at first but it’s really just nature’s way.

Little Horse on the Prairie



Krista soon had us in a large 4 wheel drive SUV and we were off. As we climbed a dirt road we asked about a statue of a black and white horse on the side of the road. Krista stopped the car and while I took pictures told us this was their “Little Horse on the Prairie”. We got a chuckle out of that and the joke let us know that our guide had a sense of humor.



Ranch Overlook


The first stop on the tour was an overlook that Krista told us was used to film the ranch for several western films including Crazy Horse. Before we got out Krista checked the area for rattlesnakes.
Several more stops followed where Krista pointed out the flora and fauna in the area, explained about sage plants and flowers and in general set the stage for the main event.

At one stop we caught up with another tour. One of the women was upset because her camera had stopped working. Both Krista and I looked at it but we couldn’t figure out what was wrong with it. I had 2 point and shoots with me as back up for exactly this reason. My DSLR hasn’t ever given me a problem but I have heard many horror stories of camera’s dying at the worse possible time so I always throw in a P&S or two just in case.

I offered to let the woman borrow one. I told her to just take the memory card and leave the camera with the front desk and I’d pick it up when our tour ended. Their guide was witness so I wasn’t too worried about the camera being stolen.

　
As we continued with our “nature “ tour, I admit I was getting restless for the wild horses.

It was worth the wait so I think I’ll let you wait another day too. I’ll tell you about the horses in another post. J