Inside the Dome car we had great views out the curved windows so as we pulled away from the station we got a good look at the “mounted escort” that was pursuing the train. I’m sure you’ve guessed who by now, none other than the “outlaws” from the Wild West show. As the train gathered speed , we easily left the riders behind.
The Dome car had a “concierge” assigned to the car by the name of Mimi. In addition to serving snacks and beverages throughout the trip, she also entertained us with stories about her job and her life and how she came to be working on The Grand Canyon Railroad.
I guess the railroad doesn’t think the scenery is enough to keep guests entertained because in addition to Mimi, we had a “Singing Cowboy” who spent most of the trip in our car. He was very entertaining and a lot of fun. He asked everyone where they were from and then sang a song related to each place. When he got to me it was Charlie on the MTA, of course!
The rise across the Colorado plateau was slow but if you didn’t notice it in the ride, you could see it in the change of the vegetation. By the time we reached the South Rim we would be at an elevation of 7000 ft above sea level.
Arriving at Grand Canyon Station we were hustled off the train to waiting tour buses. I wasn’t sure which bus I was supposed to take but it didn’t take long for another tour to adopt me. This tour group was made up of AAA Travel Agents. We had a great driver and tour leader named Frank who filled us in on what to expect when we got to the Grand Canyon. The biggest warning…don’t get too close to the edge! It may sound obvious but every year people fall over the edge and are seriously injured or killed. I bought a book titled “Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon” by Michael P. Ghiglieri and Thomas M. Myers. It’s just amazing what people will do!
Frank finished his safety speech and pulled the bus over. We had reached the first stop and I was about to get my first look at the Grand Canyon. I don’t know what I expected and I don’t know what other people felt or thought. I can only tell you that all the pictures I’ve seen and descriptions I’ve heard did not prepare me for the actual sight of the Canyon. Part of my brain told me it wasn’t real. It was so huge and so overwhelming that I felt like if I reached out a hand I would touch a huge mural. At the same time I had to step back and close my eyes because it made me dizzy. Neither reaction was what I expected.
The sun had done it’s work and it was now about 70 degrees. Very comfortable for viewing the Canyon. I had packed a pair of binoculars but forgot to bring them with me to the canyon. Someone spotted one of the mule trains that takes tourists to the bottom of the canyon but it looked like a line of ants. The scale of everything was just amazing. Pictures and words just don’t do the Grand Canyon justice.
Because I was on a tour, I wasn’t able to linger . It was back on the bus to the next stop which was the Yavapai Center. Inside there are viewing windows and exhibits but I liked the relief map of the Canyon the best.
After the stop at the Yavapi Center we headed to the Maswick Lodge for lunch. On the way we passed the corral with the burros that make the trip up and down into the canyon. According to Frank, no donkey has ever fallen into the canyon. Shortly after that we were delayed by a “critter jam” as a family of Mule deer crossed the road and stopped traffic.
Frank was “fretting” because the "critter jam" put us behind schedule. He was concerned that is he didn’t get us to the lodge by 2:30 they would shut down lunch, but we made it . Lunch was a hot buffet and was quite good. After lunch we had a few minutes to look for souvenirs and browse in the gift shop and then it was back on the bus for the return trip to the train.
It didn’t seem like we had much time at the Canyon at all but with no other way back it wouldn’t be wise to miss the bus. I had heard about all of the wildlife that is protected by the Park boundaries but other than the mule deer family, I hadn’t seen much and that was a little disappointing still, I had most of the week left. Maybe I’d see more before the week was over. In fact, on the return train ride someone yelled “look at the deer” but the “deer” was really a prong horn antelope. It was so far away that my little point and shoot couldn’t pick it up even at maximum zoom but it was still exciting to see it.
After the grandeur of the Canyon, the flatness of the Colorado plateau seemed even more pronounced. It seemed quieter on the return train ride, at least until the train was stopped by “robbers”. The crew from the Wild West Show was back and came through the cars like it was a hold up. I’m sure it’s how they get their tips for the show in the morning.
It was dark by the time the train pulled in Williams so I found a fast food place for a quick dinner and headed back to Flagstaff and then the winding road back to Sedona.
I figure I have to get back to the Grand Canyon on my own before the trip is over.
I’m glad I took the train and tour. It’s a great introduction but it’s definitely not enough. It just whets your appetite for more. Tomorrow I’ll explore “Slide Rock” and in the afternoon take a jeep tour.
http://www.nps.gov/grca/
http://www.thetrain.com/
My wakeup call came through at 6 am. I was headed up to Williams to take a ride on the Grand Canyon Railroad. My reservation requested that guests arrived 1 ½ - 2 hours before departure. Made me think of airport security, and I was told by our concierge that Williams is about a 2 hour drive from Sedona. So I hoped that I had allowed myself enough time for a 10:00am departure.
As I left the condo I noticed it was cold enough to see my breath so I went back for a jacket. After all the Grand Canyon was an even higher elevation than Sedona.
The drive through Sedona was short and sweet. Nothing was open. It was like a ghost town compared to the hustle and bustle of yesterday. Of course it was very early.
Just north of Upper Sedona RT 89 enters Oak Creek Canyon and one of the many National Forests in the area. It’s a winding, climbing road trip as Flagstaff is 4000 ft higher than Sedona. Once I reach Flagstaff, I head west to Williams.
But back to RT 89...No one warned me that RT 89 became a series of winding turns with cliffs on one side and shear drops on the other! I don’t know that I was mentally prepared for a pre dawn drive under those conditions. Maybe if I’d have know, I would have taken the longer route around this section of highway, but it wouldn’t have been as much fun. My rental car had a thermometer in the dash that gave the outside temperature. As I drove and climbed I watched the temperature drop until at one point it was a mere 32 degrees F.
The road finally leveled out as I drove through huge forests of towering Ponderosa pines and there was Flagstaff! Following the signs I connected with the highway to Williams and the rest of the ride was pretty uneventful. My biggest concern at that point was if I would be able to find the train station. I shouldn’t have worried. The exit was marked and as soon as I took the exit there were signs and there was the station, very easy.
The Grand Canyon Railway used to be called the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway Company. It made it’s first passenger run to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim in 1901. The railway hasn’t been in continuous use. It was taken out of service when automobiles became the preferred means of travel but in 1969 the railway reopened it’s service under the name of Grand Canyon Railway. Since then it has carried an average of 180,000 passengers a year to Grand Canyon National Park.
The Grand Canyon Railway uses restored steam engines in the summer but in the cooler fall and winter months when sudden snow storms can be a problem, the use of the more powerful diesel engines is required as a safety precaution. I was hoping for the steam engine but it being October, the engine was diesel .
Inside the Terminal was a cozy gift shop with some really comfortable chairs. I was afraid I was going to doze off in them and miss the train while I waited. . On the mantel of the lovely stone fireplace was a model of the “Polar Express”. The staff told me they run special “Polar Express” trips for Christmas. I forced myself out of the comfy chairs and went out to explore around the station. There was a restored Steam engine that literally glistened in the morning sun. There was also a really old, antique steam engine on display. If you are a train buff, you would love this!
As the sun came up more it was beginning to warm up a little but there was still a chill in the air. I was very glad I had my jacket. After passing the antique steam engine I saw some bleachers and on the side of the trail leading to them, 3 “Boot Hill” style graves…(Hmmmm, me thinks I may be about to get more than just a train ride..). The Graves had headstones the read “Here Lies Large (MINIME) Barge”, “Here Lies John Moore , Shot by Gabby with a 44”, and “With all the luck, Here lies Buck”. At least they have a sense of humor!
I headed on over to the bleachers and found a few other guests there . They were chatting with a couple of cowboys. The cowboys had a couple of horses and people were just milling around and petting them. As more people began to arrive the bleachers began to fill up and the cowboys backed off a little, but only a little.
The show they put on was a typical “Wild West” show with names like Mr. Sage Brush and bad jokes …so bad you had to laugh, and lots of blanks being shot. A sheriff arrives in the nick of time and the outlaws ride off in a hurry. There was lots of crowd involvement...even I got picked on and had my picture taken with one of the “cowboys/outlaws. The show probably lasted 30-45 minutes and as soon as it was over we got the call of “All Aboard” and headed for our train cars.
My seat was in a “Dome” car called the Kokopelli. The Dome car is an observation car with domed windows for unobstructed views. It is also a “child free” car/ adults only. There are other cars geared specifically for families with young children. I believe the railroad provides entertainment geared to children in those cars.
The car was full with just about every seat taken. Turns out that the other seats belonged to a tour group from Florida. They were all very friendly and happily “embraced me “ as one of their own for the trip.
Well, as this post is getting kind of long, and the story has just begun so I think I will break here and pick up the actual train ride and my first sight of the Grand Canyon in the next post. Until then, Happy trails, pardner.J
My first full day in Sedona was really a “get acquainted” day but it was full none the less.
I was up early and after taking pictures of the mountains and resort in the early morning light, I headed over to the concierge to get some advice on the best places to go and things to do. They were terrific. I asked if the Hot Air Balloon rides were available but they were all booked. They said there was a big Hot Air Balloon Festival in Albuquerque, NM but I figured there was enough to do in Arizona without trekking off to a neighboring state.
I headed down to the Chamber of Commerce building and picked their brains there, then found parking in Upper Sedona and bought my tickets for the ride on the trolley.
The Sedona trolley is the absolute best way to get the “lay of the land”. It is a sight seeing trolley with 2 separate routes. I bought a combo ticket so I could see it all! Unlike other trolley’s I’ve been on…Old Town Trolley in Boston & Key West and the Waikiki Trolley in Hawaii..this was not an on / off trolley. This was a tour. We did stop at various landmarks and get off for photo ops but it wasn’t run as an alternate transportation option.
What it is turned out to be was a fantastic overview of the Sedona Area filled with quick facts, myths and general banter. It was a very entertaining ride and I highly recommend it, especially if, like me, you have never been to Sedona before.
The trolleys are Molly trolleys and they are manufactured in Ogunquit, Maine. The trolley office is located in upper Sedona which is the “tourist” section. As I mentioned the trolley does make stops that lets you take pictures. Since I was traveling alone, my fellow travelers were more than happy to take my picture so I would have a memento. They seamed to think I was a bit of a curiosity because of my solo status.
Some of the key stops were Kachina Woman ,which is located at the entrance to Enchantment Resort and is known as a Hoodo (a harbinger of bad luck), and the Chapel of the Holy Cross. This is one of Sedona’s most well known landmarks and we made a stop here to allow us to enter the Chapel. We also passed rock formations called the Madonna and Child, Courthouse Butte, Bell Rock, Elephant Rock and my favorite, Snoopy Rock! We were introduced to the legend of the Jackalope and got to see a Century Pant, actually a Desert Agave.
Legend says the century plant takes 100 years to bloom. All of it’s energy goes into producing this once-in-a lifetime bloom. After it flowers, it dies. Native Americans used the plant for soap, food, fiber, medicine and weapons and it is still used commercially in Mexico to produce tequila.
The Trolley also took us through Tlaquepaque. This is a picturesque part of Sedona filled with upscale shops . The streets are shaded and there are cobble stoned courtyards. The area is considered a shoppers paradise offering everything from fine art and jewelry to designer clothing. The whole area is pattered after a Mexican village by the same name.
Once off the trolley and back in Upper Sedona, I explored the main street. There are cement posts all around the area and when you look closely to see what they are about, you realize each one has a plaque with the name of an actor or actress, the movie they were in that was filmed in Sedona and their hand print .Sedona’s own “walk of fame”. There are more shops than I can possibly mention here , all unique and fascinating. I found little chocolate candies that looked like gravel or rocks. Had to get some of those to take home. Many sculptures are strategically placed along the street and in little courtyards.
I loved the General Store which offered a wide array of items you don’t see everyday plus two terrific bear displays!. I’m told that there are no bears in Sedona anymore but you couldn’t prove that by me.
I was fascinated by the a/c system at The Canyon Breeze so I had to eat there. The Canyon Breeze is a fast food type restaurant where you stand in line to place your order then wait for your number to be called. They have seating both inside and out. If you sit outside, which is what I did, the air is cooled by a mist that is periodically released from vents in the eves.
Big Sellers in the T-shirt shops are “Dirt Shirts”, T shirts that are dyed with the red dirt of the Sedona area. The TV show Dirty Jobs actually did an episode on “dirt shirts”. In that show they also featured dirt shirts from Hawaii which has the same rust colored soil. I’ve been to Hawaii twice and didn’t see the dirt shirts there but they were everywhere here in Sedona.
Everyone had a suggestion of what to see or do while I was in Sedona but one thing that kept coming up was to go to the Sedona airport to watch the sunset. They said there were Vortexes near the airport and that everyone gathered there at dusk. So as the day began to wind down, I headed to the airport.
Well, here I am at the Airport Mesa and it does have a panoramic view of the area. I saw a couple of hikers climbing the rocks in back of the mesa and was told they were heading up to the airport Vortex. As the shadows began to lengthen the rocks began to take on a deep red hue. Very slowly the sun crept closer to the horizon and then it was over ! No brilliant colors across the sky, you need clouds for that, just a yellow point of light that was there and then gone. Everyone turned around and headed for their cars. For me, a bit anticlimactic but at least I could say I’d been there and done that. Maybe if we get some clouds before I leave, I’ll try it again.
Tomorrow I’m heading to Williams to catch the Grand Canyon Railroad to, where else, the Grand Canyon and my wakeup call is for 6 am so I headed back to the condo to get a good night’s sleep.
Hope you have a good night too.J
http://www.mollytrolley.com/
http://www.sedonatrolley.com/
http://www.redrockrealty.net/chapel.html
